Assess Your Car


Follow these logical steps and you will be surprised how much more you will notice. Allow yourself plenty of time to do this and don't allow yourself to be distracted by the seller. Ideally ask to be left alone while you go through the process. A confident seller will allow you to do this. If he knows his car is good and he has nothing to hide he can let the car sell itself. It may be worth printing off a copy of our appraisal form to help you with the process.

  • First impression. What was your initial feeling when you first saw the car? Were you pleased or disappointed? If you were disappointed then the car is unlikely to be the one for you. Don't try to convince yourself it will be OK. It probably won't.
  • To save time ask to see all documents. You need to look at the registration document, MOT, service history and if they have it a car data check report for the vehicle (you may know this as an HPI check). The registration document will show you how many owners it has had. If it is a private seller then that should be the owner named in the document. The last and previous owner will be shown on the front page. The MOT should have the same car details on as the registration document including the mileage at the time it was carried out. The service history booklet should contain the car details and obviously a complete record of services. The servicing should be carried out either based on time or mileage. Ie (depending on manufacturer) 12 months or 12,000 miles. Some are two years or 18,000 miles. Some manufactures allow the cars computer to indicate when a service is due. This information is all available from the handbook and service booklet. If you are happy so far then carry on to the next step.
  • Study the paintwork. Obviously you would notice scratches, dents, rust etc. But a little more attention to detail can reveal an awful lot more. If the car has had paint work there can be telltale signs of paint around door handles, mouldings and window mouldings. Stand away from the car and in a crouching position look down the sides of the car. Are the panels perfectly even or are there signs of rippling. This is an indication or repair work. Open the bonnet and boot. Look at the seams where panels are joined. They should all look the same - any new work unless done professionally will look different to the manufacturers finish. While you are studying the exterior, look at the wheels: If they are alloys, are they pitted, scuffed or damaged. If they are steel are the trims damaged or the edges of the wheels damaged. Whilst you are looking check the tyres. Are they in good condition, plenty of tread, and not showing signs of uneven wear on the outer or inner edges. The side walls of the tyres should be free from bulges, cracks and cuts. Don't forget the spare wheel.
  • Check the glass. Look at the windscreen, headlamps, fog lamps, etc. Are there any cracks, chips, or repaired 'bullet' holes. Look at the windscreen from the inside as well as the outside. The car will fail an MOT if the drivers vision is impaired in any way.
  • Study the interior. Are there cigarette burns, rips, wear (particularly on the side of the drivers seat) Are there traces of burns that have been repaired. Sometimes these can appear a bit like a chewing gum stain. If the trim is leather then again look for excessive wear or cracking. Look at the roof lining. Is it stained (water leaks or cigarette smoke) or damaged. Whilst sitting in the car: Check the electrical items. Test the radio and try a cassette, CD or the CD multi changer. Try the sunroof - if electric it should open and shut easily. The tilt and slide mechanism should work and the sunroof should return to its closed position and sit correctly. Central locking - do all the doors operate and do the remote fobs work. Test the electric windows, electric seats, and satellite navigation - is the CD supplied. Does the heater blower work on all settings.
  • Under the bonnet. There not much you can see these days on modern cars. However you can see if the engine area is reasonably clean and you can check the oil, water, brake fluid, power steering fluid levels. They should all be at the correct levels. If not it could be a sign of general neglect. The oil should be reasonably clean if it has been changed recently. There should be no sign of a milky residue (this could indicate headgasket problems). The water should be clean. Not brown or sludgy. It is normal for it to have a colour such as green which will be the anti freeze. Only check the water when the engine is cold to avoid scalding. Completely clear water could indicate it has been changed recently and not had antifreeze replaced. Ask why. There should be no oil leaks around the engine.
  • Switch on the ignition. Look at the warning lights. They should all light up. After a few seconds most will go out. Some of the important red lights will stay on until the engine is started.. Once the engine is started all lights should be out. The most common faults are associated with air bags, ABS, and Engine management. These can be expensive to fix. Any warning light that remains on should be investigated with some urgency. All red lights are serious warning indicators, meaning that you should stop the car as soon as safe and possible. All orange indicators are indicating that something important is requiring attention as soon as possible. Start the engine. From cold the car should still start easily (in the case of diesels they should start quickly and easily once the heater plug light has gone out). While the car is running try the air conditioning. You can often hear the pump click in and the air coming out of the vents should turn very cold quite quickly. Be careful when testing during winter months since it may not be too obvious. Does the car warm up quickly and does the heater work efficiently. Leave then engine running for quite a while and have another look around the car. Does it run evenly and smoothly. Does it smoke. (it is normal for white smoke/steam to emit from the exhaust while the car is warming up - particularly during cold weather) Rev the engine and look for signs of excessive smoke. Blue smoke usually means a worn engine. Excessive black smoke from a diesel requires investigation.
  • Take the car for a test drive. Does the car feel pleasant. Is the engine smooth and without hesitation. Are there any unpleasant noises or rattles. Try the gearbox through all gears - changing up and down. Do you feel or hear any crunching sounds when changing gear are there any whines from the gearbox in certain gears. All of these could indicate wear and expensive repairs. If automatic, the gear changes should be smooth up and down the gears. Does the car smoke while on the road when accelerating or decelerating. Is the temperature reading normal. Is the steering wheel straight. Does the car pull over to the left or right whilst trying to drive in a straight line. Double check there are no warning lights on. Apply the brakes from a reasonable speed with a reasonable pressure. The car should pull up in a straight line without any brake judder through the pedal. Try the car on an uneven road surface- are there any clonks or knocks from the suspension.
  • When you return from the test drive, have another look around the car to make sure you haven't missed any thing on the body. Its surprising what a second look will reveal.
  • If you are happy then you can start negotiating. If you haven't already established the value of the car, click here.
  • If you are still uncertain you could always have an independent inspection from a trusted garage or motoring organisation.
  • Before you commit to buy, check the car out with a car history check. This is extremely important!
  • mycarcheck.com - car data check